And george yule



(No Model.) 2 SheetsSheet 1 E. TWEEDY 8: G. YULE.

MACHINE FOR OURLING, FINISHING, 0R TRIMMING HATS.

No. 317,425. Patented May 5, 1885.

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(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

E. TWEEDY. & G. YULE. I

MACHINE FOR G RLING, FINISHING, OR TRIMMING HATS. No. 317,425. IPatented May 5, 1885.

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I Q N WWMMM NITED STATES PATENT ()FFICE, .f

EDMUND TWEEDY,-OF DANBURY, CONNECTICUT, AND GEORGE YULE, OF

NEWARK, NEW' JERSEY, ASSIGNORS, BY'DIRECT AND MESNE ASSIGN- MENTS, TOTHE HAT CURLING MACHINE COMPANY, OF DANBURY, CON- NECTICUT.

MACHINE FOR CURLING, FINISHING, OR TRIMMING HATS.

SPECIFICATI forming part of Letters Patent No. 317,425, dated May 5,1885.

Application filed September 4, 1884.

To all whom, it ntay concern:

Be it known that we, EDMUND TWEEDY and GEORGE YULE, citizens of theUnited States, respectively residing in Danbury, Connecticut, andNewark, New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inMachines for Curling, Finishing, or Trimming Hats, fully described andrepresented in the following specification and the accompa- 1o nyingdrawings, forming a part of the same.

This invention consists, primarily, in the combination, with a rotatinghat-clamp, of arocking arm pivoted upon a fulcrum, with its vibratingend adjacent to the hat-clamp, so as to hold the tool in proximity tothe hat, and the arm being vibrated automaticallyback and forth twicefor each rotation of the hat, so as to traverse a predetermined ellipticpath around the hat, independently of any contact that the tools mayhave with the hat.

It also includes means for adjusting the toolcarrier upon the arm, andconsists in a toolcarrier guide pivoted to the free end of the arm, sothat the tools may rest freely upon the hat- 2 5 brim plate, anadjustable device for vibrating the carrier nearer to or farther fromthe hatclamp, means for moving the tool-carrier in the pivoted guide, astop to regulate such movement, an adjustable supporter for suso tainingthe toolcarrier when withdrawn from the hat-brim plate, a removableweight applied to the tool or carrier to press the same temporarilytoward the hat-brim, means for carrying two curling'tools upon thehinged guide and for moving them in opposite directions to clear thecurl when finished, and a hinged or universal joint between the tool andits carrier, so that the tool may adjust itself to the shape of thehat-brimplate.

The rocking arm claimed herein will be readily distinguished from allthe pivoted arms or carriers heretofore used merely as a movable supportfor a tool. In such cases the arm has been held stationary whensustaining the tool 5 in an operative position, and has been turned uponits pivot merely to inspect the tool or to adjust it in a differentoperative situation. In our invention the arm is used as a substitutefor the various reetilineal slides heretofore used to vibrate the toolback and forth adjacent to the hat while operating thereon; and

(N0 model.)

our arm, therefore, differs from all others which are stationary upontheir pivots when the tool is in operation by reason of it having aconstant rockingor vibratory motion at such time, for which reason wehave claimed it as a rocking arm, and hereby disclaim all hinged toolcarriers or supporters that are not so vibrated.

Several modifications of these improvements are shown herein, and otherconstructions may be devised to carry out the diiferent parts of ourinvention.

In the drawings Figurel is a front elevation of a machine provided withtwo vibrating arms at opposite sides of the same hat-clamp; but each armis shown actuated by separate means, to show that one arm may beemployed alone and that the means for vibrating it may be varied atpleasure. Fig. 2 is a side elcvation of the same machine. Fig. 3 is aside elevation, partly in section, of a hat-clamp and arm upon a largerscale, with only such part of the frame as sustains the said parts. Fig.4 is a plan of the tool-carrier and its guide. Fig. 5 is a rear view ofthe same parts, and Fig. 6 is a vertical section of the same at thecenter of the shifting-pinion. Fig. 7 is a vertical section of thejointed tool on its carrier.

In Figs. 1 to 3, inclusive, A is apedestal of T-section, provided with aflange or foot, A, a bearing, A at the top for the spindle of thehat-plate, cam, and clamp, front and rear bearin gs, A and A for thedriving-shaft, and side extensions carrying bearings E for the rockingshafts. The hat'clamp B is mounted at the top of the pedestal on aspindle, B, in the bearing A It may be made of any desired construction,but is assumed to be of the expansive brow-block class and a handwheel,B and arbor B are shown in Figs. land 3 for actuating such block andclamping the hat, either with or without the hat-plate B Gears B and Bconnect the spindle B with the driving-shaft. C, the front end of whichextends through the pedestal, with the remainder fittin g into andbeyond the horizontal bearings A and A the rear one of which is enlargedto receive a sleeve which is formed with a pulley, C, at its outerend'and a toothed hub, c, at its inner end.

'Betweenthe bearings A A is located a toothed clutch, a, which isfeathered upon the shaft 0 so as to rotate the shaft when the clutch isengaged with the toothed hub c, the pulley 0 being driven continuouslyby a belt. (Not shown.)

A clutch'lever, 0 is jointed to the pedestal and to a shifter, 0 whichproj ects to the front 7 l a finishing-iron, f, is represented asjointedto the tool-carrier D, which latter may also be movable to and from thehat-clamp in a guide, D, as at the left side, where the guide D ispivoted to the free end of the rocking arm G by a pin or short shaft,I), both arms having fulcra E journaled in bearings E upon oppositesides of the pedestal A, and the vibrating ends of the arms beingextended opposite the sides of the hat-clamp so as to sustain the toolsin proximity to the hat. The arms are shown provided with projections orcranks upon their inner sides,near the fulcra, and weights WV hungthereon, to press the tools toward the vibrating agent, and to thustrans mit a regular vibrating movement to the tool, free from the lostmotion incident to such vibrating mechanism.

The vibrating mechanism shown at the right side of Fig. l is anadjustable shoe, H, provided with a roller, H, arranged to bear upon theedge of the hat-plate, B, which plate has its edge suitably shaped toact as a cam, B and impart the desired oscillating motion. The shoe H isfurnished with a curved slot, to, to fit a GlZLllJplHg-DOIC, a, insertedthrough the arm G. As the vibrating mechanism has a uniform stroke,while the arm or holder G must hold the tool nearer to or farther fromthe clamp, to suit brims of different widths, means are required forsetting the vibrator and carrier in various relations. A setting-screw,a is therefore fitted to a hearing, a and nut to, upon the parts G andH,

' respectively, to set the rocking arm or carrier in any desiredrelation to the vibrator, as may be required to set the tool into anoperative position at any desired distance from the center of thehat-clamp. This means of adjust ment is for a purpose totally differentfrom the movement of the carrier to and from the hat-clamp in its guide,that movement being intended merely to clear the tools from the hat, andnot being necessarily combined with any means for securing the carrierin various positionsintermediate to its extremes of movement. Theclamp-bolt a serves to bind the holder or arm Gr rigidly to thevibrating-shoe H, after the former has been adjusted for any specifictool or hat, by turning the settingscrew (0 To guide the operator inthus setting the carrier, we commonly use a graduated scale affixed tothe parts G or H, but have not shown the same herein, as we have made itthe subject of a separate patent application.

To move the tool'carrier in its guide, we have shown the former providedwith a rack, b upon its lower side adjacent to the pivotal shaft 1), andprovide the latter with a toothed pinion, b and with a head adapted toreceive a crank, b, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4; or a hand-wheel may beaffixed thereto.

The rear end of the carrier is provided with an adjustable stop, I),projecting from its bot tom at such point as to strike the guide 1) whenthe carrier is properly set. This stop consists, as isseen in Figs. 3 to5, of a flat piece notched into the rear end of the carrier and heldthereto by an adjusting-screw which has a round milled head, 8. Thelower end of the stop projects below the carrier, and thus strikes thebody of the guide D when the carrier is thrown forward.

lVith this construction themachineis adapted to sustain a tool at anyrequired distance from the hat-clamp or the hat-crown thereon, and asthe cam 13 reciprocates the shoe H twice for each rotation of the hat,the tools are "ibrated in such manner as to traverse a certain curveupon or about the hat independently of any contact with the hat itself,just as in the rectilinear-slide machines heretofore used.

\Vith the parts described, the machine is operated as follows A hat ofknown size and width of brim is secured upon the hat-clamp and one orboth the carriers thrown forward by turning the pinion or pinions b andmov-' ing the carrier until arrested by the stop 12*. The clamp a isthen loosened and the settingscrew to it turned until the tool iscorrectly set to operate upon the hat-brim. When correctly adjusted, thehat may be curled and the tool then be quickly retracted to remove thehat by turning the pinion If. The provision of the stop will thenobviously afford the means of restoring the tool to the same operativeposition for any number of similar hats, provided the toolis unchanged,and, should it be necessary to change the tool upon one or both sides ofthe hat, the stop then affords the means to adjust the tool correctlyand to reset it repeatedly in the same position. By slackening the clampto sufficiently to move the shoe H upon the arm G the tool may beadvanced while the machine is in motion, and any operation, as curling,may be gradually performed by first setting the tool-in its primaryoperative position and then gradually turning the settingscrew a untilthe curling is entirely effected. The clampbolt is not, therefore, anessential feature of the construction, and is entirely dispensed with inthe vibrator adjustment shown at the left side of Figs. 1 and 3. In thisconstruction, the arrangement of the parts is inverted, and theadjustable shoe is employed to fix the carrier 40 i made detachable, andothers of diii'erent shape or its guide movably upon the arm G, thelatter having a fixed movement imparted to it, instead of to the shoe,by means of a connecting-rod, h, affixed to an adjustable crank, E. Thiscrank is mounted in a bearing, h, parallel with the driving-shaft (J,and is driven thereby through a pair of gears of the requiredproportions. The crank-pin is adjusted in a slot in the crank by ascrew, h,-so as to vary the vibrations at pleasure and the shoe isfitted to a slide upon the arm, and provided with the adjusting-screw aa to set the carrier in relation to the vibrating mechanism in therequired manner.

It is obvious that other means of vibrating the carrier and adjusting itin relation to the vibrating mechanism may be used,.provided the armitself be vibrated twice for each rotation of the hat, as required toactuate the tool in an elliptic path independently of the hat.

The sliding carriers, being intended merely to retract the tools whenreplacing the hats, need not be constructed to draw entirely away fromthe top of the hat-plate B and to secure any further withdrawal of thetools, so

- as to remove the hat plate, it is desirable to move the vibratoritself from contact with the plate and hold it back, with the affixedrocking arm, by a suitable catch attached to the pedestal A. Such catchis shown in Figs. 1 and 2 as a sliding spring-bolt, e, inserted in aboss, 6, upon the top of the bearing behind the vibrator-arm H, and thelatter is formed with a hole, e corresponding with the bolt when thevibrator is drawn back, as described. When thus drawn back, the bolt isautomatically shot'into the hole a by a spring, e inclosed in the boss0. The hat-plate may then be readily removed from. the clamp, if

at the edge be substituted, so as to actuate the tools in any desiredcurve; A knob, e, is shown fixed to the end of the bolt, by which it ispulled back from the hole a", when the machine is again ready for use.

To sustain the carriers and tools when the arms G are pulled back, anadjustable support is required, and is provided in the setscrew (0 shownin Fig. 1, that at the left side being inserted in the guide D, andresting upon its support H, while that shown at the right-hand tool isinserted in a lug upon the arm G so that the carrier almost touches itwhen the tool is in an operative position. By adjusting the screws thetools may be sustained when withdrawn from the plate, and rest upon thesame automatically when restored to their operative positions, thussaving the operator the trouble of lifting them on either occasion.

The finishing-ironfis intended to press the brim of the hat, eitherbefore or alter curlin g, and is jointed to the end of thetool-carrier 1) to compensate for the curved movement conveyed to thecarrier by the end of the rocking arm G, a tool rigidly attached to thecarrier of a ball-and-socket joint, whereby the tool is i made self-adjusting in the direction ofanypressure applied to it. The segment of aball is shown formed upon the back of the iron at m, with a bolt, m,affixed to its center; and the socket is formed upon the arm, at theinner side of a concentric shell, n, with a central aperture, a,somewhat larger than the bolt, so that the same may tip therein. Aconcave washer, 0, is fitted to the outer side of the shell, and a nut,0, applied to the bolt above the washer, so that the iron is movablyheld in the socket and lifted with the carrier when the latter is turnedupward upon the end of the arm G. A wooden knob, 19, is applied to theouter end of the bolt to manipulate the iron when hot, and asupporting-screw, e, is inserted in the rear end of the carrier andarranged to touch a lug, e upon the arm G, to prevent the carrier fromfalling down upon the outer side of the arm.

To heat this jointed iron effectively by a gasjet, we mount thegas-burner entirely apart from the iron upon the tool-carrier, as at lin Fig. 7, and project the flame Z by air-pressure into the interior ofthe iron through an opening, 70, left at one side of the joint. By thisconstruction the gas-pipes are not attached at all to the iron, and thelatter may, therefore, be removed and changed more readily, and thecombustion is also more perfect than when the pipe is inserted withinthe shell of the iron. The flame is shown directed against the lowerface or operative side of the iron as used in a curling-machine, and thebottom of the iron is thus most effectively heated. Such is also adaptedfor use in a hat-finishin g machine, and is, therefore, claimed distinctively.

In Figs. 1, 3, and at is shown a construction for operating both insideand outside curlingtools upon the same carrier or guide, the hookedbreaker d, often applied to the inside of the curl, requiring anopposite movement to that applied to the curler b for disengaging itfrom the finished curl. To permit the liftin g of the breaker from thehat-brim it is com- -monly joint-ed to the toolcarrier, and, in ourconstruction, is jointed to a slide, 61, fitted to the guide 1) abovethe carrier-slide. To impart to these two slides opposite movements,

a fulcrum, r, is attached to the guide, and

draws the breaker automatically from the interior of the curl when thetool I) is drawn back by the pinion b but if the breaker be hinged to amovable slide, (1, as shown, it may be constructed without the lever r,and be moved independently of the carrier by the hand of the operator.

. claim such movement of these tools, except by means which actuatesthem both by the same agent or handle.

At t in Fig. 1 is shown a detachable weight secured to the carrier forthe iron F to press the same temporarily upon the brim with an increaseddegree of force, the weight being provided with a screw-stem, a, whichholds it securely to the carrier as the same is moved about, and whichpermits its removal very readily when not required. By the use of suchweight the pressure may be regulated in any desired degree, and operatesuniformly when the iron is moved up and down, as when curling hatspreviously set upon a curved flange. Although we have claimed suchweight specifically in the present application, we reservethe right, onbehalfof George Yule, to file a separate patent application for thesame,jointly with Frederick Cooker, in a more generic claim. Wetherefore disclaim the same generically, restricting our presentinvention to the combination of the weight (to be thus genericallyclaimed) with the vibrating rocking arm claimed herein.

The ball-joint described herein is also required upon the curling-toolsb when operating uponhat-brims previously set, as the brimplate B isthen set to match the brim, and the curling-tool is tipped in everydirection as such brim-plate revolves beneath it. The brim-plate is madechangeable, as in many other similar machines, and may be separate fromthe hat-clamp and held stationary on the bearing A as its movement isnot essential to the operation of the tools when operating on flatbrims.

We are fully aware that many of the elements of our invention have beenused heretofore in different combinationsas, for instance, a pivotedhinge upon a finishing-iron, a vibrating guide for a tool-carrier, or arocking arm with an iron or tool affixed thereto and do not, therefore,claim any such elements, broadly but we are not aware that any tool foreither hat curling or finishing has been combined with a rocking armvibrated automatically or independently of any contact with the hat, orthat any rocking arm has been provided with a tool-carrier movable in aguide pivoted thereon, or that a tool has ever been pivoted to a carrierwhich has in turn been pivoted to a rocking arm.

Having fully set forth the nature of our invention herein, it will beseen that the rocking arm is in all cases combined with an automaticvibrating mechanism and. with a T0- tating hat-clamp, and that thelatter implies in all cases suitable mechanism for revolving it atpleasure when the hat is properly clamped thereon. Such rotatingmechanism is not claimed herein, although implied in all the claims, andmay be varied, as well as the form and arrangement of the various parts,in any required manner to effect the combinations claimed. We have,however, claimed certain constructive features of the machine inseparate applications, Nos. 11t2,206, 142,210, and 142,211, filedherewith.

Although we have shown herein a tool-carrierpivoted to a rocking arm insuch manner that the tool may rest freely upon the hatbrim, we disclaima yielding or weighted tool or carrier generically and we hereby reservethe right, on behalf of George Yule, to file a separate patentapplication, jointly with Frederick (locker, before the issue of ourpresent claims, for the combination, witha brim-supporting plate, of acurling-tool resting freely upon such plate, and operated by a vibratingholder and tool-carrier. 7

Many features of our invention are equally applicable to machines forironing hats, and for trimming off, softening, and paring brims, and wehave therefore used general terms in claiming the same herein.

The distinction between our invention and preceding ones is clearlyshown by reference to such patents as J. Nutts, No. 303,191, and (l. H.Reids, No. 292,356, in which various devices are used to hinge the toolupon a carrier or holder, so that it may be adjusted vertically, orturned up for more convenient inspection, or placed in an inoperativeposition, as stated in lines 117 to 124, inclusive, on page 2 of saidReids patent. In all such constructions the tool is not vibrated on thepivot when in operation, but the pivot itself is attached to somemovable piece to which the vibrating motion is imparted, so that thepivot is required to vibrate in order to move the tool, and all parts ofthe hinged arm have the same motion relative to the hat-clamp. In ourinvention the pivot of the rocking arm is stationary while the tool isin operation, and the vibrating movement is transmitted to the tool byrocking the free end of the arm. Our invention also differs from othersin respect to all the means for holding and adjusting the tool, whichmeans are all, in our invention, attached to the end of a vibrating orrocking arm, instead of to a slide, as heretofore. Our construction,therefore, exhibits a tool-carrier pivoted to the free end of therocking arm, anda guide for sustaining and moving the carrier relativeto the arm, as well as means for moving the carrier and a stop foradjusting it in its operative positioniupon the arm.

IIO

Having thus distinguished our invention from others, what we claimherein is 1. The combination, with a 'rotating hatclamp, of a rockingarm pivoted upon a fulcrum and having the operative tool or toolsattached to its free or movable end, and means, independent of anycontact with the hat, for oscillating or vibrating the arm on its pivotor fulcrum to and from the hat-clamp twice for each rotation of the hat.

2. The combination, with a rotating hatclamp, of a plate to support thebrim of the hat, and a rocking arm pivoted upon a fulcrum and having theoperative tool or tools attached to its free or movable end, and means,independent of any contact with the hat, for oscillating the arm on itspivot or fulcrum to and from the hat clamp twice for each rotation ofthe hat.

3. The combination, with a rotating hatclamp, of a rocking arm pivotedupon a fulcrum and having the operative tool or tools pivoted to itsfree end, so as to rest freely upon the brim-plate, and means foroscillating the arm on its pivot or fulcrum to and from the hat-clamptwice for each rotation of the hat.

4. The combination, with a rotating hatclamp, of a rocking arm pivotedto a fulcrum and having its free end adapted to vibrate to and from thehat-clamp, as described, a toolcarrier attached to the arm, a vibrator,and means, as shoe H, for adjusting the arm nearer to and farther fromthe hat-clamp, substantially as shown and described.

5. The combination, with a rotating hatclamp, of a rocking arm pivotedto a fulcrum and having its free end vibrated to and from the hat-clamp,as described, a carrier-guide hung on a pivot at the free end of thesaid arm, a carrier movably fitted to said guide, and'means for movingthe carrier in the guide to and from the hat-clamp.

6. The combination, with a rotating hatclamp, of a rocking arm pivotedto a fulcrum and having its free end vibrated to and from the hat=clamp,as described, a carrier-guide hung on a pivot at the free end of saidarm, a carrier movably fitted to said guide, and means for moving thecarrier in the guide to and from the hat-clamp, and a stop to limit suchmovement.

7. The combination, with a rotating hatclamp, of a rocking arm pivotedto a fulcrum and having its free end vibrated to and from the hat-clamp,as described, a carrier-guide hung upon a pivot at the free end of saidarm,

a pinion applied to the said pivot, a tool-carrier movably'held in thesaid guide and provided with a rack in contact with said pinion, a stopto determine the movement of the carrier, and means for rotating thepinion to set the tool in its operative position and to withdraw it fromthe hat-brim to remove the hat.

8. The combination, with a rotating hatclamp and table for supportingthe hat-brim, of a rocking arm pivoted upon a fulcrum and having itsfree end vibrated to and from the and sustaining the tool at the levelof the table.

9. The combination, with a rotating hatclamp and brim-table, of arocking arm pivoted at one end and having its free end vibrated to andfrom the hatclamp, as described, a tool-carrier pivoted at the free endof the arm so that the tool may rest freely upon the hat-brim, and aremovable weight affixed directly to the tool or carrier and operatingto press the brim toward the table.

10. The combination, with the vibrating arm pivoted upon a fulcrum andhaving its free end vibrated to and from the hat-clamp, as described, ofa shoe carrying a roller adapted to bear upon a cam, a screw for settingthe shoe and roller in the required position, and a clamping-bolt forholding the shoe and arm rigidly together.

11. The combination, with a rotating hatclamp, a brim-table, and acarrier vibrated to and from the clamp, as described, of a tool restingfreely upon the hat-brim, and ahinged or universal joint between thetool and carrier.

12. The combination, with a rotating hat clamp, of a curling-toolcarrier mounted in a vibrating carrier-guide, a breaker or inside toolpivotally connected with such guide, and a single handle for moving thecarrier outward and the breaker inward to disengage both the tools fromthe curl when completed, substantially as herein described.

13. The combination, with a rotating hatclamp, of a curling-tool carriermounted in a vibrating carrier-guide, a breaker or inside tool pivotallyconnected with such guide, and means for moving the curler outward andthe breaker inward simultaneously by mechanism connected with both.

14. The combination, with a rotating hatclamp, of a rocking arm pivotedupon a fulcrum and having the operative tool or tools pivoted to itsmovable end, means for vibrating the arm with the tools adjacent to thehat-clamp, means for pressing the arm constantly toward the clamp, and acatch operating to sustain the arm with the tool in an inoperativeposition.

15. In a hat ironing machine, the combination,with a tool-carrier havingthe iron pivoted thereto, of an iron formed with an external opening inits rear side to admit a gasflame, and a gas-burner fixed to the carrierentirely outside of the iron and adapted to project a jet of flame intothe interior of the iron, substantially as and for the purpose setforth.

In testimony whereof we have hereunto set our hands in the presence oftwo subscribing witnesses.

EDMUND TWEEDY.

Witnesses: GEORGE YULE.

THOMAS E. TWEEDY, Tnos. S. CRANE.

